Real de Catorce… the name sounds romantic, the place is famous for its fantastic virtues, this town is a living legend. This is the land of an age-old cult, dating back thousands of years to fuse first with our now inscrutable pre-history, then with a glorious but ephemeral more recent past and the current period of cultural renaissance. It is a picturesque village with steep, narrow cobbled streets.
There are few places in Mexico where there is such a convergence of races, faiths and languages, as you will find in Real de Catorce. At any time of the year you can see people from very different Mexican social groups, interacting with each other and with foreigners. Another peculiarity is that, sometimes you can also see members of one of the most mythical ethnic groups in our country: the Huichol Indians.
A normal day in Real de Catorce moves at a lethargic pace, but on weekends, holiday seasons and religious feast days, the intense activity is surprising. Dozens of tourists pour into the village to become part of this living legend for a few days, to explore the ruins, to go horseback riding, to have an exciting ride in the old Willies vans that drive down into the arid plains, to enjoy the star-studded night skies or make a pilgrimage to Wirikuta, the sacred lands of the Huichol tribe. Yet other tourists are drawn by the Easter rituals and come to see one of the most solemn representations of the Passion Play in Mexico.
On the other hand, all the year round, hundreds of pilgrims come to Real de Catorce to express their devotion to the miraculous St. Francis of Assisi. Around October 4, pilgrims are here in thousands and at this time, no one would call this a ghost town! The hall where the votive offerings are hung and the altarpieces in the parish church bear witness to the unfaltering devotion and the miracles which have been granted to the faithful. This experience is not to be missed, and nor should you miss a visit to the old Mint (Casa de Moneda – the Cultural Center) and the atmospheric local cemetery.
Even though Real de Catorce is a small town, the number of hotels and other accommodations is surprising. Even more surprising is the quality of the food in some of the restaurants. According to many people, some of the best international cuisine in the state of San Luis Potosi can be found in Real de Catorce – even vegetarians feel the same way. But there are also some more traditional soups and stews that are served in local fondas and sold on the street. In spring, the cabuche (the flower of the biznaga) tacos are definitely even more delicious than the best spaghetti with Parmesan cheese that you could ever imagine!
And a “ghost” town is, of course, always surrounded by a myriad of mysteries and legends. The ruins of some of the former mansions and mines remain as silent witnesses of mythical treasures, stories of the underworld, and the best storytellers are, of course, the tour guides and the ladies who serve the traditional food in the fondas.
Article written with information by:
Secretaría de Turismo
del Estado de San Luis Potosí
